Helpful Hints and Information
|Posted by susan_lenz on September 24, 2014 at 7:25 AM||comments (0)|
How do i know when my poultry have lice?
Monthly or bi-monthly flock inspections of each chicken should be performed in order to identify and address parasites before an infestation worsens and birds begin exhibiting signs of parasites. Particular attention should be paid to brooding hens as they dust-bathe less frequently than usual and are especially vulnerable to parasites.
Some of the common signs of any type of mite or lice infestation in a chicken are:
- decreased activity or listlessness,
- pale comb,
- changes in appetite,
- a drop in egg production,
- weight loss,
- feather-pulling, bald spots, redness or scabs on the skin,
- dull, ragged-looking feathers and spotting the bugs or mites on the chicken.
Poultry lice are fast-moving, 6 legged, flat insects with round heads that live only on the chicken and its feathers. They are beige or straw colored and are typically found at the base of feather shafts near the vent. Poultry lice feed on dead skin and other debris such as feather quill casings. When parting the feathers near the vent to inspect for parasites, they can be seen briefly as they run away. The eggs laid by the female are seen at the bases of feather shafts
PREVENTION is the best method!
• In order to prevent infestations of lice and mites, the coop should be cleaned regularly with particular attention paid to disposing of loose feathers that can harbor hatching eggs (nits).
• Limit visits from fellow poultry-keepers who can transport the beasts on their clothes, footwear or equipment, (vehicles, shared farm equipment, etc.) - see our previous post on bio security
• Keep poultry feed in a secure location so as not to attract wild birds, which can carry parasites and diseases. Many lice and mites are brought into coops by sparrows and wild birds.
• Always quarantine new birds for at least 14 days before introducing them to an existing flock to watch for parasites.
• Ever wondered why your chickens roll round in the dusty ground? This is called dust bathing. By providing adequate dusting areas for chickens helps them care for their own skin and feathers naturally. A dust bath is the chicken equivalent of a daily dirt shower. It helps them maintain their skin and feathers and controls parasites. By adding food grade diatomaceous earth (DE) to the dust bathing area combats external parasites.
By adding garlic to your chickens feed (garlic granules) and crushed garlic to your poultry water helps prevent lice as they do not like the taste of the blood of the chickens that eat garlic regularly
Upon identification of lice or mites in any flock member, treatment should begin immediately. There are many different products employed to eradicate mites and lice with varying degrees of effectiveness, among them are: Pyrethrum Dust, dog flea dips, flea shampoos, Pestene Powder, Superfine Diatomaceous Earth and Ivermectin. When lice or mites are detected on one bird, the entire flock should be treated. Treating birds after dark when they have gone to roost is the easiest way to treat the entire flock.
Always wear a respirator when applying Pestene and diatomaceous earth and the job is much easier with the help of another person to hold the bird, I dust underneath the wings and vent area of each bird sparingly but thoroughly. I also clean and treat the entire coop with particular attention paid to nests and roosts.
**Treatment must be repeated twice after the initial application in 7 day increments, in order to kill the eggs (nits) that had not hatched at the time of the previous treatments.**
These tiny, eight-legged insects can live both on the chicken and in the coop. They are partial to cracks and crevices in wood, roosts and inside nesting boxes. You can often see a greyish dust like substance on perches or timber which are the mites in brute force.
Mites can be grey, dark brown or reddish in color and can often be seen along feather shafts and underneath roosts after dark. Mites are active at night when they venture out to leech blood from chickens. With its moist, rich blood supply, the vent area is a favorite feeding ground of mites.
Signs of a mite infestation are:
- scabs near the vent,
- eggs on the feathers and feather shafts and a light colored bird’s feathers may appear dirty in spots where the mites have left droppings and debris.
- A heavy mite infestation can lead to anemia and death of a chicken.
Mites will bite humans, causing minor irritation in the affected area. Another common mite is the scaly leg mite.
SCALY LEG MITES:
Scaly leg mites (Knemidocoptes mutans) are microscopic insects that live underneath the scales on a chicken’s lower legs and feet. They dig tiny tunnels underneath the skin, eat the tissue and deposit crud in their wake. The result is thick, scabby, crusty-looking feet and legs. The longer the mites reside under the chicken's leg scales, the more discomfort and damage they inflict; an unchecked infestation can result in pain, deformities, lameness and loss of toes.
Scaly leg mites spread from bird to bird in a flock, therefore when one bird is infected, all should be treated. As always when external parasites are found in a flock, the coop should be thoroughly cleaned.
OPTION 1: Soak, Oil, Vaseline
1) soak the feet and legs in warm water
2) dry with a towel, gently exfoliating any dead, loose scales.
3) dip feet and legs in oil, (linseed, mineral, olive, vegetable) which suffocates the mites.
4) wipe off linseed oil and slather affected area with petroleum jelly.
The petroleum jelly should be reapplied several times each week until the affected areas return to normal. It may take several months for mild to moderate cases to resolve.
We sell a number of products to help prevent and erradicate these nasty creepy crawlies from your coops in our online farm shop and our Margate store. Come and have a chat to us about all your needs - we are always happy to advise on the best method for your particular needs :-)
|Posted by susan_lenz on July 27, 2014 at 2:15 AM||comments (0)|
I often get questioned over chickens that have this or that wrong with them, and although im not a vet or had clinical training, i have done quite a lot of research on poultry illnesses and diseases (and lots of other livestock as well!), and had a lot to do with animal re-abilitation.
Over the years of "playing farmer" I still very much believe in prevention is far better than cure, and my natural remedies are a large part of my feeding regiment at Riverbend Farm. I use garlic and herbs in all my feed outs daily.
Chickens have immune systems and are susceptible to illnesses and diseases just like humans. Birds can become very sick very quickly from many factors related to their overall health. Dirty housing, proximity and health of other birds in the flock as well as the wild birds that fly overhead or even into your coops, and rodents entering your coops and leaving their droppings for your chickens to eat or leaving disease in your feeders.
Prevention is definately the best defense in keeping your chickens healthy and happy.
Adding new members to your flock should also be done gradually, with a "quarantine period" of at least 4 weeks before adding new birds to your existing pens. Newbies should be treated for lice and mites and of course wormed.... but looking for far bigger problems is the reason for quarantining new comers. There are many diseases that chickens can get that will not only clean out your whole flock, but also leave residue in your ground and pens for years to come! So there would be nothing worse than going out to the coop one day after adding a newbie to notice your whole entire flock is very ill!
In the many years that I have kept free ranging chickens, I have not yet had to deal with any outbreaks of disease or damaging level of parasites. I believe that if you provide your birds with enough room to forage, dust bathing areas to preen themselves in and a diverse range of plants, fruit and vegetables to peck at and eat, that free range chickens have healthier immune systems and they can eat a specific plant (herbs especially) that can prevent and cure most ailments.
Chickens can be affected by respiratory, viral and bacterial diseases - many of which are contagious and can spread quickly to other members of the flock. Injury and parasites are also a large common problem to some backyard poultry keepers.
Being aware of what a normal, healthy chicken looks like makes it easy to spot an unhealthy or ailing chicken quickly.
SOME SYMPTOMS OF A SICK BIRD:
- watery or mucousy eyes
- nasal discharge
- panting or weezing
- coughing or sneezing
- skin discolouration - pale or blueish
- wartlike lesions
- unusual stools - diarrhea, bloody, allwhite, or green or watery
- not eating or drinking
- drinking exessively
- pale combs
- swolen joints or inflamed skin
If you see any of the above symptoms, separate your sick bird from the rest of your flock, investigate the problem and either take your bird to the vet for diagnosis or seek advice.
Bio security is a big part of keeping our farm disease free at Riverbend. A lot of poultry related diseases are diseases that are "carried" into your flock in some way - either a new bird that is a carrier, a wild bird or rodent bringing disease into your coop or even being carried to your flock from a visitor, or unhygenic farming practices - please give thought to people entering your coop and livestock areas that have travelled elsewhere and may be carrying disease on the bottom of their boots!!!... And although the following information may seem rather overwhelming to apply to your couple of hens in the backyard coop, there would be nothing worse than going out to feed your girls one day and your whole flock be sick, or worse - dead.
Disease can be brought into your flock as simply as your neighbour saying hello to your hens! and it can wipe out your complete flock very quickly.
The effects of disease outbreaks in poultry should increase every poultry owner’s awareness of developing and maintaining a good biosecurity program. Having a good biosecurity program will protect your flock from contracting a disease that can infect poultry. Additionally it provides a measure of protection to yourself and neighbors that have poultry, in that you are not spreading a disease. With this in mind, below are four key principles of a biosecurity program that will help minimize the likelihood of your poultry being exposed to an infectious disease. Realistically it is difficult to perform all of these steps; however the more that you do, the more protected your birds are.
The four key principles to biosecurity are:
Recognizing Warning Signs.
Keep the area around housed poultry clean.
- Do this by keeping the grass cut, removing any possible shelter and food sources. This is to discourage animals and insects from coming near your poultry.
- Prevent wild birds and water fowl from coming into contact with your poultry.This can be accomplished by preventing the accumulation of free standing water near poultry pens or by limiting poultry access to free standing water, such as ponds.
- Minimize contact with other poultry, such as can be found at swap meets. If contact with poultry isunavoidable, then proper sanitation (see proper sanitation below) is crucial to minimize the chance of accidental transmission.
- Avoid dead wild birds. Any found should be treated as if they are highly infectious and disposed of quickly. After disposal, washing hands and sanitizing the area where the bird was found is important
- Minimize traffic.This includes visits to other poultry pens/livestock sales/farms/swap meets.
- Avoid transporting equipment from location to location. If this is unavoidable, thoroughly sanitize the equipment prior to use.
- Keep curious people away from the chickens.
- Latch and lock gates
- Hang “No Trespassing” or other (Keep Out) signs.
Ask visitors if they have had recent contact with poultry and if they have, do not let them near your poultry. If possible, supply clean protective foot and head coverings and overalls. Clothing and shoes are excellent methods for transporting disease to your premises. Sanitize your shoes or change shoes before entering your chicken pen. If possible, have a pair of shoes just for the farm. If dealing with poultry of various ages, always try to handle younger birds before older birds. Mortality disposal should be done in a timely manner.
- Make sure that wherever the carcasses are disposed, animals cannot gain access to them.
Sanitation General cleaning and disinfection
- Most microorganisms are susceptible to sanitizers and can be killed by heating or drying. There are many types of sanitizers available ranging from quaternary ammonia to bleach and everything in between. An important consideration when using a sanitizer is that you switch between types a couple of times a year.
- Sanitation should be done on all equipment and surfaces between flocks, or once a year.
- It is important that all organic material be removed from surfaces prior to sanitation. This will ensure that the sanitizer has proper contact time with the surface, which should maximize its effectiveness.
- Manure: Manure is a reservoir of most diseases and should be handled with care.
Recognizing Warning Signs Know your chickens!
- Try to spend some time with your chickens so that you learn their personalities. That way you can easily identify sick ones. Recognizing unusual behavior will assist in treating and preventing the spread of disease within the flock. Unusual behavior includes:
- A lack of energy, poor appetite, watery/green diarrhea, sneezing, gasping for air, coughing, nasal discharge, discoloration of the wattle/comb/hocks, swelling of the neck/head/eyes, drooping wings, tremors, twisting of the neck or head.
If you suspect that the chickens are sick contact your veterinarian, state diagnostic lab or a qualified expert. Get a diagnosis if possible, before going to the store to buy a treatment that may or may not be effective.
It doesn’t matter if you are raising 5, 50, 500 or 50,000+ chickens, preparing and following a good biosecurity program is important for maintaining the health and well being of a poultry flock. If properly implemented and there is a disease outbreak, there is a good chance that the flocks that have a good biosecurity program will not be affected
|Posted by susan_lenz on April 30, 2014 at 3:45 AM||comments (0)|
Diatomaceous Earth is a completely natural product. It is also known as natural amorphous silica and can be used in more than a thousand ways to achieve significant improvements in plant and animal health increasing productivity and lowering production costs. It is an organic non toxic, chemical free, natural mineral - making it suitable for use anywhere from the smallest garden to the largest agricultural ventures, and for animals and in animal enclosures of all kinds.
The diatomaceos earth that we stock compares with the best in the world. Formed in a high altitude volcanic lake in far North Queensland, Australia. It has a low content of salt and heavy metals and an ideal balance of trace elements and rare earth minerals.
What are the benefits for poultry farmers?
Of all animas, chickens and ducks respond the fastest to natural silica supplimentation. Scientific trials sho that when assessed against a control group, chickens fed DE were noticeably larger, with more meat, stronger bones, healthier and free of parasites.
Diatomaceous Earth can be used for:
- Feed Suppliment
- Parasite control both internal and external
- Reduces smells, fewer flies
- Improves the health of the poultry
- Improves the quality of the eggs
- Increases the quantity of the eggs produced
Save with lower production rates:
It is recommended that Diatomaceous Earth replaces 15% of the feed given to poultry to enable the DE to work efficiently. When used in this quantity, the DE will reduce the amount of commercial feed required, allowing farmers to achieve significantly improved production and save on feed (15:85) will control any worms that are present in the stomach of the birds and will reduce the smell emitted by droppings. The absence of any internal parasites as well as the improved overall health and well being of the birds, can lead to measurable weight increases.
What else can DE be used for?
Natural silica has been proven to have a significant, positive impac on animal health, animal weight and size, and on pasture quality and sustainability.
- Increased Production: when optimal levels of silica are used cattle can experience superior weight gain. Cattle fed DE can outweigh non-DE fed cattle by up to 11.65% at the same time as reducing feed by an average of up to 25%
- Reduced Expenditure: Additional increases in profits can be achieved through a reduction in expenses. When used in recommended quanities, DE will reduce reliance on the application of chemical inputs and feed requirements, resulting in fewer vetinarian bills. If used in line with regulatory requirements DE can void withholding periods.
- Improve Animal Health: livestock health problems, including tyhose that have been unresponsive to traditional chemical and medical treatments, can be controlled with optimal DE use. Mastitis, scours, tumours and cysts can be contrrolled.
Natural silica is directly related to the formation of bone, cartlage and can increase the collagen in growing bone by up to 100%. Silica can also accelerate the growth in calves and plays a vital role in weight gain in adult livestock.
Optimal use of DE can stimulate the metabolism, including the metabolism of minerals, increase protein digestion and the amount of feed exposed to the digestive processes, thereby increasing the amount of feed utilised by the animal.
Parasite and worm control:
Although perfectly harmless to humans and animals, natural silica contains sharp microscopic edges which kills the parasite or worms in the digestive tract on contact. (Heartworm and lung worm are not controlled) Because of this mechanical process, parasites are unable to build up resistance or become immune. Parasite control with DE is extremely effective, and completely safe. Natural silica is 100% organic, harmless to animals and humans and will not be subject to any witholding period.
DE effectively controls all insects and pests common with animal farming, including fleas, ticks and buffalo fly. By aaplying the DE directly to the animal and spreading it in the enclosures, the number of insects is significantly reduced without the use of toxic chemicals.
This is a great product to use in your dust baths for poultry and spread throughout nesting boxes to erradicate the presence of lice and mites.
Natural silica will also be present in the animal droppings and will control insects and lavae on or in the dung. If spread on pasture DE will improve the soil and grass fertility and will also control pests such as cut worm and army worm.
DE and Agriculture - Benefits for Growers:
Natural silica significantly increases crop yeild which means increased revenue for growers. Natural silica proivides the plant with energy and reinforced its ability to protect itself against stress. Soil treated with DE will have optimum fertility through improved water, physical and chemical properties and by allowing nutrients in the soil, such as phosphorus, to remain in a plant available form. All crops benefit from silica nutrition and when used in recommended, typically average a 15% to 35% increase in yeild within the first season. Crops such as rice and sugarcane, which can take up more silica than nitrogen, typically average a 20% to 70% increase in yield.
The Environmental Benefits of DE:
Diatomaceous Earth will improve the quality of agricultural land by:
- Restoring soil fertility
- Detoxifying the soil
- Increasing the amount of arable land
The overuse of synthetic chemical fertilisers and pesticides leads to the soil degradation and toxicity, DE wll:
- Increase plant tolerance to toxic elements, allowing the plant to grow and produce good yeilds.
- Change the chemical structure of the soil, detoxifying chemical poisons.
This means a reduction of chemical fertiliser use. Ongoing use of DE reduces reliance on chemical inputs - both fertilisers and poisons, which reduces expenditure.
Less chemical fertilisers will:
- Produce healthier crops
- Better tasting and better quality food
- Increase transportation and shelf life of fruit and vegetables
- improve soil fertility
|Posted by susan_lenz on March 18, 2014 at 6:20 AM||comments (0)|
Chicken keepers have been giving raw garlic to their hens for decades, possibly longer, to help them treat infection and respiratory problems but also to improve their appetite and the size and quality of the eggs they lay. After a few weeks of use, the sulphur from chicken's droppings is also reduced which can make your chicken coop and run smell better.
When freshly crushed, garlic releases allicin and allicetoins that have antibacterial properties.
Anything added to your birds diet should be carefully researched first, as should any external preparation. Anything you choose to use should be introduced gradually and tested in a small quantity at first.
Here is a list of what garlic might be useful for:
- Garlic can be used on a birds skin as an antiseptic for minor wounds and abrasions.
- Added to the diet, it may help to make the environment in the gut less attractive to internal parasites (worms) although this should not be used for confirmed cases of worms or as an alternative to a proven wormer such as Nilverm etc. I could find little research in this area although many poultry keepers believe it helps and some old books suggest a strong solution of crushed garlic, but then again old books suggest many remedies that we now know don't work and there are many 'Old Wives Tales' when it comes to poultry keeping!
- It can be rubbed into the legs to help prevent parasites such as scaly leg mite and there have been studies that have shown it reduces the incidence of mites.
- A few cloves crushed into water can make a tonic that can help boost the immune system.
- Garlic improves the appetite and helps hens produce larger and better quality eggs.
- The respiratory system can benefit from breathing steam which has (fresh) garlic infused into it. This can be done by placing the bird into a show cage / puppy crate -anywhere that can be covered in plastic easily (still allowing enough air to breathe) and placing a steaming bowl under the plastic -but- outside of the cage (so your bird doesn't get burnt). This can help their breathing as an expectorant and gets the active anti-inflammatory ingredients directly into the lungs.
- The sulphur content of chicken manure is reduced when feeding garlic which can make your chicken house smell a little better!
|Posted by susan_lenz on February 17, 2014 at 7:30 PM||comments (0)|
Worms and chickens
Ectoparasites are found on the outside of your chickens - an example being lice or mites. Endoparasites on the other hand are found on the inside of your birds body and are referred to as Helminths in the veterinary world which is a term used to cover a wide range of internal parasites or 'worms' as we commonly call them.
The most important group of worms that concern us are called Nematodes. These worms inhabit various parts of the digestive tract and are listed below. All of the worms listed are part of this group, with the exception of Tapeworms which are part of a group called Cestodes.
The following types of worms can be found in poultry:
Hair worm - Found in the crop, oesophagus, proventriculus and intestine. Also called Capillaria.
Roundworm - Found in the birds digestive system.
Gizzard worm - Found in the gizzard, mainly in geese. A common problem for goslings.
Tapeworm - Fairly uncommon, found in the intestine.
Gapeworm - Found in the trachea and lungs.
Caecal worm - Cause little damage but transmit blackhead to Turkeys.
Worming chickens is important because most infections of these worms can cause damage and eventually death. So let's look at the lifecycle of these worms to understand them a bit more.
The lifecycle of poultry worms
There are two ways worms are commonly picked up by chickens
1 Direct Life-cycle:
Worm eggs are expelled from an infected bird in droppings, by the thousands. These eggs sit on the ground surviving for up to a year before being picked up by birds foraging when they are feeding. Large Roundworm, Gizzard worm (that affects geese), Hair worms and Caecal worms follow a direct life-cycle. Hair worms can also follow an indirect lifecycle.
2 Indirect Life-cycle:
Worm eggs are expelled from an infected bird by the thousand. This can be in droppings, or in the case of gapeworm that are found in the respiratory system, coughed up. Worm eggs are not infective at this stage. Intermediate hosts, (such as earthworms, slugs, snails and centipedes) will eat these eggs and (you've guessed it) your chickens will eat these intermediate hosts and the worm eggs they have ingested and your birds become infected. The larvae hatch inside your chickens and the cycle repeats. Hair worms, Gapeworms and Tapeworms follow an indirect life-cycle although hair worms can also follow a direct lifecycle as well.
Health problems caused by worms
Many health problems that your occur can be related to an infestation of worms of some sort, so it is important to not only worm your birds regularly but manage houses and runs correctly in between worming treatments.
Signs and symptoms of worms
The most common symptoms are loss of weight / poor weight gain, increased feed consumption, pale yolk colour, diarrhoea and in severe cases, anaemia (pale comb and wattles) mortality. In the case of gapeworm, chickens will gasp for breath or 'gape' stretching their neck.
Damage caused by worms
The damage caused by worms will be in the part of the digestive tract (or respiratory tract in the case of gapeworm) in which the worms live. Typically, in the gut, worms cause anaemia and haemorrhaging and in sufficient numbers can impact (block) the gut. They not only damage the gut but also take nutrients and their waste releases toxins.
Good husbandry – preventing worms
Here are some tips to making life more difficult for worms.
Worm eggs thrive in wet, warm, muddy areas. Remove muddy areas such as those found by pop-holes by creating hard standing or free draining gravel.
Worm eggs cannot develop when it is very dry, when the temperature is below 10˚C or above 35˚C. Worm chickens as the temperature rises in spring.
Worm eggs are destryed by Ultra-violet Light (UV) from the sun. Keep grass short and rotate pasture in the summer if you can to help prevent a build up of worm eggs.
Keep litter in poultry houses fresh and always ensure it is dry.
Prevention is always easier than cure so follow good husbandry techniques and combined with regular worming (according to the manufacturer's instructions), you shouldn't see any problems
Treating for worms:
There are a number of products on the market to treat for worms in poultry. Most of these products are added to water and the birds are required to fast the night prior to giving them the tonic.
Lots of people say that adding crushed garlic to the chicken waterers is also a great idea, along with apple cider vinegar, are believed to work as the gut becomes an unpleasant place for the worms to live.
I have also recently found a natural recipe, that I am yet to try, in the form of a mash.
Here is the recipe:
1 kg of mash (commercial ground meal)
1 litre of milk
1 purple garlic knob
3 hot chillies
1 Tablespoon tumeric
1 Tablespoon Paprika
1 Tablespoon Cayenne Pepper
1 pinch seaweed meal
Starve chickens 24 hrs prior to giving this mash
Put the milk in a pan, crush the garlic and add immediately along with the chopped chillies and spices, and seaweed meal. Warm all up and stand overnight. In the morning, warm again and add to the meal.
Feed this to your chooks. The meal should be fed on the last weekend before the full moon.
Signs and Syptoms of Worms in Chickens:
Signs and symptoms of Capillaria Worms: Diarrhoea (usually green), pale yolks, anaemia and birds looking hunched, wings sagging. Death with large infestations.
Roundworms: These worms are 5 to 8cm long and live in the middle part of a bird's intestine. Bad infestations of large roundworms in poultry usually occur when birds are kept in intensive conditions on dirty litter or in runs that have been used for many years.
large-roundworm-damage - Large roundworm infestations occur directly by birds eating eggs that have been passed out in droppings. These eggs have to be infective which takes 10 days. Once eaten, eggs hatch in the bird's proventriculus and the larvae move on to part of the intestine called the lumen. A week later, the larvae get into the mucosa, part of the intestine wall and start to cause damage. Occasionally, large roundworms crawl up the oviduct and can appear inside eggs.
Loss of egg production and pale yolk colour and anaemia are the biggest signs of a large roundworm infection as well as a loss in weight gain for growing birds. Birds can look depressed and eventually if the infestation is heavy, they can die
Tapeworm: There are many different species of tapeworm that affect poultry although they are not often found and thankfully, most of them are completely harmless. Large numbers can cause weight loss and a reduction in laying. Tapeworms or Cestodes vary in length, some are 4 to 5 mm long and others are up to 25cm long! Tapeworm infect birds indirectly via intermediate hosts such as flies, earthworms and snails. The adult tapeworm lives in the intestines of the bird, it buries its head in the lining of the intestines. Tapeworm is quite rare to find in chickens but none the less can still be found on occassions.
Signs and Symptoms: Segments, Diarrhoea (sometimes bloody diarrhoea such as with Raillietina tapeworms, that use beetles as an intermediate host) weight loss, reduced egg production. Tapeworm segments or worms in droppings. Death can occur with very large infestations.
|Posted by susan_lenz on February 11, 2014 at 6:05 PM||comments (0)|
Do you have excess eggs that you just dont know what to do with? please share your egg recipes with us to publish on our website!
This great quick recipe is from a friend of mine that is great for using all those exces zucchinis and eggs! for a quick meal or even a lunch box snack:
3 or 4 zucchinis
1 large onion
3 rashes bacon
1 cup grated cheese
1 cup SR flour
1/4 cup oil
5 eggs lightly beaten
Salt & pepper
Grate unpeeled zucchinni coarsely & finely chop onion & bacon. Combine all ingredients. Pour into a well greased lamington tin ( about 16 x 20 cms) & bake in a moderate oven (180c) 30-40 minutes or until brown. Can be served with salad or veges.
|Posted by susan_lenz on February 7, 2014 at 11:45 PM||comments (0)|
I love a chicken coop to have character. Theres just something whimsical about chicken coops to me, and although my building skills are not quite up to some of the following pictured ... perhaps they can offer you all some great ideas: